MOUNTAIN TO FJORD 22-24 of AprilLocalization: Bygland- Evje- Kristiansand
In this trip we had three different activities: we practiced canoeing, climbing and mountain biking. We spent four days and three nights.
The two first days we did 25 km canoeing in the Bygland fjord to arrive Evje. We spent the night sleeping in Trolaktiv and the next morning we did mountain biking (20km) to go to another area where we were practicing climbing. The next day was spent to arrive to Kristiansand (50 km biking).
Now I will explain some learnings from the different activities that we practice.
CANOEING:
When you are canoeing you have to have some considerations in relation with SAFETY. The first thing that we have to pay attention is: always wear a lifejacket. Of course, like always you are outside, you have to check the weather forecast and take appropriate clothes for this. That day was sunny and windy, so I wore break wind jacket. Of course don’t forget use solar cream.
In the canoe we had a big barrel where we put the most important things. Also you can use a big plastic bag to cover the ruck sack.
When everything in under control you can go into the canoe. It will be easier if you follow the next steps:
Put the canoe into the water (make sure that is floating freely in a place with big stones)
Holding the paddle put one foot in the middle and transfer your weight on to.
When the canoe is stable bring your other foot into the boat.
You can choose between two different seating positions. You can sit on a seat in a canoe or you can kneel in the bottom of the boat with your feet under the seat. The latter is more stable because your weight is lower.
Normally the lighter paddler should sit in the front of the boat when paddling tandem.
Then I will show some different paddle strokes:
Forward Stroke
The fundamental stroke, this maneuver propels the canoe forward. It’s a simple stroke—one repeated more than any other—but it is often done improperly. The grip hand, the hand at the top of your paddle shaft, should also be at about eye level. The power comes not from your arms, but from your torso. You have to rotate the shoulder on your paddle side forward, planting the paddle, and then rotating your shoulder back. Your arms should engage only briefly at the end of the stroke, as you recover and bring the paddle forward again.
Draw Stroke
Is something the front, or solo, paddler can employ to move the boat sideways or change direction. It’s done “onside,” the same side that you are already paddling on, which eliminates the need to repeatedly switch sides.
To execute, turn to face the stroke you reach out over the water, plant the paddle and essentially you pull the boat toward the paddle. To recover, turn the blade perpendicular to the boat and slice it away from you, or lift the blade out of the water, and repeat the stroke.
Cross Draw Stroke
Designed for the front paddler, the cross draw is like the draw stroke but done on the opposite, or “off,” side than you are paddling on. If you want to turn the boat right, for example, and you are paddling on the left, maintain the same grip, withdraw the paddle from the water, fully rotate your torso, and execute the draw on the opposite side.
Stern Pry Stroke
The opposite of the draw stroke, the stern pry comes at the end of a forward stroke and brings the boat toward the paddle side. It’s a powerful turning stroke but can slow the boat down, so it’s important to execute quickly.
J Stroke
When you’re paddling in tandem, there’s always that tendency for the boat to turn a bit to the stern paddler’s off side. The J stroke is to keep the boat on the straight path.
Used by the stern paddler, the J stroke is also added near the end of a forward stroke. As your arms come backward, rotate your grip hand forward and down, so that your thumb is pointed downward and push your bottom arm slightly outward to complete a quick “J” in the water, gently nudging the boat back toward the paddle.
When you are paddling you must use a map of the area, where you can see all the features of the water. For example you can observe the deep of the water, routes, islands or beaches. This information could be very important if we want camp in a good place.
Capsize in a canoe:
If you try to get out of a canoe while is capsizing, you run the risk of a gunwale cracking you on the head. Is better to get out once upside down, when the boat has stopped moving.
Process: push away from the gunwale (keep hold the paddle), take hold of the boat and swim to the end, then you can turn it over.
BIKING:
It is always important to remember the basics that will keep your cycling both fun and safe.
The follow points might come across as really obvious, however, it is normally by ignoring or forgetting one of these simple facts:
Make sure the helmet is fits comfortably on your head and doesn’t slip forwards or backwards. Make sure that they are pulled upwards and tighten just below the ear.
Is advisable to use gloves to protect your arms, MTB clothing (cycle shorts) and also protective glasses. They will protect you from the sun, small debris that might flick up and branches across the trails.
Unless it is a route that you’ve ridden many times, take a map, compass and / or GPS unit. If the weather changes, things can look very different in the fog or rain. Have your mobile with you as well and make sure that batteries are charged and that you have spares.
First the brakes, lift each wheel in turn and apply pressure to the brake lever, they should never touch the handle bars.
Next, tyres, check the pressure, use a pump gauge to check if the pressure is high enough. Mountain bikes require oil and it’s the chain that takes a lot of the wear, regularly applying oil to the chain will help extend the life of the chain and chain set.
Performing all the checks, either when you get back from a mountain bike ride or before you go out for the next one will help to protect you and your bike.
CLIMBING:
Climbing outdoors can be one of the most thrilling and satisfying forms of climbing, combining the gymnastic styles of indoor climbing with an adventurous environment. We were climbing in a wall 6 or 7 metres of height and different levels routes were opened.
Some consideration to set up a top rope:
The first step is find two or three points where you can tie the rope. They can be stones, trees or natural structures. Then you can make a safe structure anchoring the rope in the different points. To get this you have to use different knots (double figure 8, clove hitch…) and karabiners. That picture show an example:
Some considerations before climbing:
Check Harnesses
After you’ve geared up and tied into the rope at the base of a route, always check that both the climber’s and belayer’s harness buckles are doubled back. Make sure the leg loops are also snug; most harnesses have adjustable leg loops.
Check Knots
Before you start climbing, always double check to make sure that the lead climber’s tie-in knot (usually a Figure-8 Follow-Through) is tied correctly and finished with a backup knot. Also check that the rope is threaded through both the waist loop and the leg loops on the harness.
Wear a Climbing Helmet
Always wear one when climbing or belaying. Helmets protect your head from falling rocks and from the impact of falling.
Check the Rope and Belay Device
Before you lead a route, always double check to make sure that the rope is properly threaded through the belay device . Also, always make sure that the rope and belay device are attached with a locking karabiner to the belay loop on the belayer’s harness.
Pay Attention
When you’re belaying, always pay attention to the leader above. He is the one taking the risks of a fall and leading the route. Is also positive communicate all the time with your partner.
Climb With the Rope over Your Leg
When you are leading a route, always make sure that the rope is over your leg rather than between them or behind one leg.
