After the first failed attempt of the summit of Northern Europe’s highest mountain, Galdhopiggen, due to inclement weather and equipment failure, we decided that we wanted to have a second attempt later in the year. However, this time would be different because of the following reasons:
- The team on the ascent attempt would not be using skis.
- Additional members were added to the team, so the weight of the packs would be less than the original attempt.
- It is later in the year and the weather should be more predictable.
The planning process for the trip was minimal as we were going to attempt the same routes that we had previously planned, this removed a lot of the planning burden. As we had additional members on the team with varying degrees of experience and skill it was decided that we would conduct training before we departed and in situ when we were at the campsite. The overall plan for the attempt was not too dissimilar from the original and was as follows:
Day 1 – Travel to Jotunheimen National Park, camp at Raudbergstulen.
Day 2 – Climb up to the summer ski centre and set up camp, training in the afternoon.
Day 3 – Summit attempt.
Day 4 – Short hill day (alternate day for summit attempt).
Day 5 – Return to Kristiansand.
The group consisted of 4 members, 3 of which had climbed, been in the mountains and had worked together previously. The fourth member admitted to us that they had little experience in mountaineering especially in conditions that entailed the use of winter equipment. As the experience levels within the group varied and it was therefore decided that training would be needed before the ascent of Galdhopiggen. This did not effect the group dynamics, it is believed that this honesty from the onset actually strengthened the group bonding. Throughout the whole trip the group bonded and worked well as team, kept high spirits and constantly looked out for each other.
Day 1
The traveling to Jotunheimen National Park went as planned and we arrived in good time with enough light left to comfortably set up camp for the night and enjoy a pleasant evening meal enjoying the weather and scenery.
Day 2
We woke early and everyone set about breakfasting and packing our equipment away as soon as possible and parked the car at the hostel. The walk up was harder over the mixed terrain of snow, ice and clear road than everyone expected and we proceeded to go at our own pace rather than walk as a group.
Although we did have group rests where we discussed in detail how tiring the ascent was and how warm the weather was.
On the way up we talked to 2 other people on the mountain, who were also planning to summit Galdhopiggen tomorrow and asked if the could follow us across the glacier as they didn’t have any rescue equipment. We agreed with this request and decided that it would be best if we met up at their camp and go as one large group across the glacier.
Once we arrived at our campsite, just beyond the Summer Ski Centre we set about erecting the tent and then having a quick break before we conducted some training which consisted of crevasse rescues, walking roped together and ice axe arrests/walking in crampons.
After we had completed the training everyone agreed that it was time to have dinner, prepare out equipment for the summit attempt and retire for the night to get a good nights sleep.
Day 3
Yet again through the night the weather changed for the worse and we woke to poor visibility, a huge drop in temperature and increased wind speeds. However, we were all unanimous in the decision that we should still head for the summit. After breakfast and final kit checks we set off to meet the other group for the glacier crossing. On approach to where we agreed to meet we they were coming towards us and informed us that the weather was too bad for them and they would head back down the mountain. This decision from them did not deter us. At the edge of the glacier in the partial shelter of a few snow blocks we decided it was time to put on the crampons and rope up in preparation for the glacier crossing.
Crossing the first part of the glacier left us in high spirits and we decided to press on, however this led to the group becoming geographically embarrassed and having to conduct a mixed climb down a steep slope. Yet even this err strengthened our bond as a group by the way of putting into practice the skills that we had trained for the day prior and carrying out good rope work in support of each other.
Back on track we crossed the second part of the glacier without incident and decided to take a break before the final push to the summit. After a quick drink and bite to eat we pushed on up the spur towards the summit. As we progressed higher up the spur the wind and snow increased and the visibility reduced, this only reinforced our determination to reach the top. The going was slow in the conditions with the added fact that the leader had to kick steps into the sleep slope for the rest of the group. However, before we knew it a strange shape slowly formed in the cloud that turned out to be a hut at the summit. After congratulations and a quick photo at the top we sort shelter in the leeward side of the hut to have something to eat, drink and discuss the plan.
It was decided that we should head back to camp instead of following our intended route around the ridge towards Svellnose. Although this was not a unanimous decision, it was the majority decision and we prepared for the journey back.
Descending down the ridge was by no means any easier than ascending it, the weather was getting worse so extra care and concentration had to be taken by all group members to ensure that no mistakes were made or accidents happened. We didn’t stop until we reached the safety of the far side of the glacier and then it was only to remove our climbing equipment and straight back to the tent.
Upon returning to the tent we noticed that 2 of the guys had snapped under the onslaught of the winds encountered. We quickly fixed these and made sure that the others were all secure and put extra rocks in place to support the peg placements. It was only then that we retired to the relative comfort and warmth of the tent. Once inside and comfortable we discussed the options open to us, and the plan for the following day. The general consensus was that as the weather was deteriorating that we would not risk any other summit attempts and have a relaxing day by packing up the camp and returning to the car and eventually back to Kristiansand.
However, this was not the case. The winds increased and the tent was being pounded by the strong winds. Eventually more guy ropes snap and the loss of the support given by these cause a tent pole to snap resulting in additional poles bending beyond repair and ripping the tent in the process. The decision had yet again been made for the group by the weather. We hastily packed our equipment and tried to rescue the tent as best as we could.
Once packed and the area checked for rubbish and equipment we swiftly hiked down the mountain, both aided and hindered by the gale force winds. Only when we were in the shelter of the slope did we stop to catch our breath and eloquently talk about the conditions that we were experiencing.
Back at the car, we changed and prepared ourselves for the journey back through the night to Kristiansand.
As with all trips, valuable lessons were learnt. Below are several from this expedition:
- Dry training before conducting the task and in the environment to be encountered saved time and effort during inclement weather and on the ascent.
- Correct equipment. All members of the group should have had a map and compass. Had this been so, then the slight detour that took place would not have happened.
- The importance of fluid intake. The extremes of weather led to the majority of the group not taking on enough fluids. Had this been an extended expedition, group performance would have been affected.
Although our trip had yet again been cut short by the atrocious weather conditions experienced and equipment failure, we had achieved our main objective by reaching the summit of Galdhopiggen.