Self-Organized Field Trip: Trolltunga, Preikestolen, Stavanger

Honestly, this trip was so rough around the edges, but one of my favorites.

The first day made me skeptical that the trip would be incredibly enjoyable. The car barely – and I mean barely – fit our gear, an argument made a couple people late to pack, so we left late, and the weather forecast was variable. Nonetheless, I was overly excited to see Trolltunga, Preikestolen, and Stavanger.

The entirety of this day was dedicated to driving to the trailhead of Trolltunga and preparing for our two-day hike ahead. I think all of us found this helpful because it allowed us buffer time and minimal pressure. With no need to hike on the first day, us heading out slightly later did not hurt or stress us out. Given this, the car ride was pleasant. We stopped to eat lunch at the picnic site near TrollAktiv—a place we all knew and were comfortable with. All four of us pointed out places we had been to over the semester including TrollAktiv, our canoe route, and bright yellow house we stayed in during the snow hole trip. It was amusing to reminisce about our adventures over the semester and put us in high spirits for having another one.

As we neared Odda, the town known for being near the iconic landmark of Trolltunga, we took our time and stopped as we pleased. I yelled at Wydse to stop the car to check out Låtefossen, a waterfall I had seen online before. That was a pleasant surprise I was not expecting. Eventually we made it to the trailhead parking lot which displayed almost enough “no camping” signs to cover all of Norway. First, we prioritized dinner. It was late and everyone easily came to the consensus that we needed to eat before we did anything else. After that we proceeded to scope out a camping spot knowing well that we should not try to push it and camp near the lot. Luca messaged the other group, the Germans of 201, who were also there to see if they had any luck on finding a spot. Ultimately, we found their car, parked next to them, and began seeking out any spot that would suffice for our tent. After walking across the dam, which was suggested by some local employees, we found quite seriously the best spot. It was also conveniently next to a trailhead for other paths nearby that did not have fees or time restraints—what luck! Luca, Antje, and I began setting up the tent while Wydse fetched the car. With collective work and high spirits, we settled down quick and mentally prepared ourselves for the days that lied ahead.

Day 2

Our first day of hiking began with breakfast in the parking lot, per usual. Though the forecast predicted no rain, raindrops began to fall on us while we enjoyed our oatmeal. We all know from Len that the forecast is only so accurate, so we were not surprised but rather disappointed and slightly discouraged. There was a mutual agreement that if we started to put on our rain gear it would only continue—this mental manifestation strategy continued for the duration of the trip and was utterly entertaining. Antje and I gave in and layered on our rain gear, but Wydse and Luca held out. A local then approached us and asked us what we were doing in Odda and where we were from. He gave us the lowdown on the hike and a tip to definitely not hike the road. I also got to give him one of my potato pins which is always fun to pass along!

As we started our walk to the trailhead, which was so worth saving fifty plus dollars, the rain halted, and our moods were fantastic. It was evident that we were glad we split the trip up into two days so we could avoid the rush in the morning and not fear the trek ahead. The first hour, as expected, was absolutely brutal. All of us were sweating five minutes in and taking our time on each step. Antje and Luca, the most empathetic individuals I have met, kept right alongside me while Wydse sprang out in front. The group cohesion was palpable and driven by purely enjoying what we were doing. Once we completed the grueling, practically vertical section, we reached the valley that began showing patches of snow. Without knowing where our next water source would come from, we refilled at each opportunity. Throughout the hike, it was obvious how attentive we were to each other as well, always reminding one another to “drink up” and being unashamed to ask for a break. It was the healthiest environment I have been in this entire semester.

Finally, the challenge of the snow began. I had waxed my hiking boots meticulously in preparation for the expected obstacle. Up until the second hefty climb, I was able to avoid the snow and water handily but could not continue that way as the only option at that point was to trudge through. We opted to take lunch at a flat part halfway up since it was out of the wind and had bare patches of rock to sit on. Following that, we proceeded onward. The positions were constantly switching, but for this stretch Antje led (because she said she had to not stop to make it) and Wydse followed (because he was running low on steam). The mood and energy swings were beginning.

Ultimately, we accepted our fate: wet boots and socks. The coarse snow was rubbing the wax off my shoes and the gaiters kept the wetness trapped along the elastic. Luckily, we were delighted at the site of ptarmigans and fellow hikers which kept our mood balanced as we fought through the worst stretch. Though we were following the DNT designated trail, others had chosen higher side routes around which made for rough trails everywhere. Because there was not a single, heavily trodden path in the snow, we all sunk in every few steps—obviously leading to frustration and exhaustion. To carry myself through, I set mental checkpoints to allow myself a series of goals rather than aimlessly proceeding. After we made it out of the valley, a proper view emerged of the fjord we would be sleeping above.

More and more hikers, including our fellow program-mates, emerged along the trail and on their way down. We stopped for a short break to talk with the German gang and hear of their journey thus far. Lucky for me, I was able to grab an extra pair of sunglasses from Anna as I left my pair in the car—a rough mistake. This eye protection was a smidge too late because I ended up sunburning my eyes in the hours of hiking before. Luca noticed and thought I burst a blood vessel, but it became evident in the tent later that night and from my symptoms that I had suffered sun damage.

After this checkpoint, I became adamant to reach the top. I informed Luca that I was “on edge” which ended up being a phrase she had never heard of and did not understand. The fact that the participants of this program are from different countries and varying language knowledge has always been an entertaining obstacle. Even though all four of us natively speak different languages and come from separate countries, the condition was not outwardly reflected in how we functioned besides vocabulary stumbles. Anyways, I thought it beneficial someone was aware of how I was feeling so I could proceed and do what I needed to. This particular group was very able to function because of our openness and confrontation. In my observations, Wydse struggled with this, but I believe that is associated with him being a male and that being less typical for men. This was semi-resolved by Antje, his partner, being there and the rest of the group being women, though I am unsure how he felt about that part of the trip.

After six hours, we made it to the top and saw the astounding formation that is Trolltunga. We were met by friendly faces: two Norwegians and a Mexican who had been living in Norway the past couple of years. Because of Corona, I have lacked the typical part of a study abroad experience where you meet new, diverse people constantly so instances like this are immensely appreciated. As expected, we took far too many pictures and had to say goodbye to our newfound friends—except Santiago. He had been at the top for a few hours waiting and hoping that anyone would also be spending the night at the top. Both of us were ecstatic and spent an hour talking and looking down the fjord. Eventually, we began scoping a spot for the tent which ended up being oddly easy to find. There were two patches of rocky ground that had no snow but was awfully close to the end. I was apprehensive, but with no better spot this accessible, I accepted with the condition that I would sleep on the side of the tent furthest away from the edge—this would end up being a poor choice as you’ll read in a moment. We concluded the night with a warm meal, far too many cups of hot chocolate, and sharing of stories. I should note that this was my favorite period of time here. I won’t get too deep into it, but I never felt more content and blissful than that evening on top of the world.

Day 3

And just like that the bliss was pulled to a screeching halt as I woke up to the side of the tent whipping my face. From four in the morning on, we contemplated what to do as the wind threatened to take our tent to Denmark. Eventually Antje and Wydse climbed out of the tent to replace the wind ties that surely had come lose. After checking Santiago’s tent as well, they crawled back in and assured they were all still in place! The wind continued and we opted to wait it out a bit before packing up. Antje and I alternated pushing on the tent wall to try and maintain the integrity of the poles, but the damage was done (sorry Len). We cooked our breakfast in the vestibule of the tent and packed up our things securely in order to brave the wind and dismantle the tent. More successful group dynamics helped us quickly pack and safely collect our gear. Not to mention we also had so much fun doing so. I have not scream laughed in a while, but I can assure you I fell to the ground doing so while Antje and I struggled to fold the tarp.

After packing out and taking a few more pictures atop Trolltunga, we headed back the way we came. The hike down was honestly more miserable, primarily because I was swimming in my shoes by the end of it. We got good weather again on our way down and took our time but managed to make it down in about five hours. The way down always feels more manageable and quicker, at least to me that is the case. Once at the trailhead, we said our goodbyes to Santiago who was off to Bergen and we repacked our gear and cleaned ourselves up. This was the only part of the trip where taking our time hurt our group function.

We headed off towards Stavanger, near the trailhead for Preikestolen which we would climb the next day. Tensions rose in the front seat as Luca and I fell asleep. Having a couple in the group is by no means bad however, it does play into how the group functions as a whole if something goes awry. Luca, being the caring and active problem solver she is, took the initiative to swap into the front seat and let the tension from navigation and ferry debates dissipate. After a rough, silent car ride – broken a few times by my inappropriately timed jokes – we found a large dirt area off the side of the road. With it being close to dark and late, we opted to take what we could find. All of us immediately started setting up the tent and helping one another out. For example, Wydse and Antje blew up mats and unrolled sleeping bags. I think it is the generosity of this particular group that I admire about our functionality. While the others opted out of dinner, I was starving and cooked up some couscous in the vestibule and eventually fell asleep to the pleasant sound of rain hitting the tent.

Day 4

I shouldn’t have been surprised that it was still raining when we woke up. The west coast of Norway is somehow worse than Seattle when it comes to rain. Breakfast was cooked and ate again in the tent and packing happened in spurts as the rain stopped and started. We squeezed into the packed car and headed for the trailhead, where we unavoidably had to pay the fee to park. Honestly, this wasn’t a big deal for us though as we managed to keep the costs of the trip so low, all of us were ecstatic. Excitedly, we began the trek up and just as we saw on Trolltunga, there was a plentiful number of Norwegian flags. I proudly draped mine across my backpack and Antje displayed the one we received as a parting gift from Santiago.

As was well in the first couple kilometers of the hike. Wydse was ahead as usual and the girls steadily followed from behind. This was great until the discrepancy between Antje and Wydse came up again. Luca and I could feel the tension yet again and, about a kilometer or two from Preikestolen, Luca prompted them to step off the track and talk it out. Luca and I waited patiently which was much preferred over continuing and not having a great time. After about a half hour or so, the two rejoined us on the busy track. Back to normal, all of us got a burst of energy and motivation and reached the top in no time. Of course, it was packed so Luca led us around to the cliffs above the rock where we could people watch. It was helpful to have someone who had already done the hike before because we knew what we were getting into and a few tricks of the place. We enjoyed some non-alcoholic gluten free beers at the top because we are one highly accommodating group and took more pictures than at Trolltunga surprisingly. Walking down, Antje and I hung to the back because of our battered and weak knees while Luca and Wydse held the pace. Having an even number in the group also appeared beneficial for our dynamics.

For the finale of this trip, we drove into Stavanger. We parked in a free parking area Luca knew about and walked to the harbor through the Old Town. I absolutely fell in love with the streets and utter charm radiating from every window and cobblestone. All exhausted, we felt like we deserved a reward and because none of us had been to a restaurant in who knows how long, we opted to sit at a busy sports bar to watch a soccer game. This was also based on the fact that I had never had a drink while going out since I turned 21 just a few months ago. Wydse was determinded I get the rowdy, loud, and smokey first bar experience so we sat down and decompressed with beer and nachos (not Wydse though because he was the driver, of course).

We unraveled and told our favorite stories of the trip—this group is awfully good at reminiscing on previous days. They were all also accommodating of my request to return that night instead of camping in Stavanger and driving back the next day. I was invited to meet my Norwegian friend Aleksandra for a traditional 17^th of May breakfast and watch the parades and I did not want to miss that. While we drove back, the two dozed off in the back and I kept Wydse company. We stopped only for a short bit to eat a proper dinner. This allowed us to see it was Luca’s turn to be annoyed and the rest of us acted accordingly and it functioned well, I think. The rest of the ride was smooth sailing and ended in quick goodbyes given it was one in the morning when we finally pulled into Kaserneveien. Fortunately, we were all happy to reconvene for a dinner the following day to utilize the rest of our food and look fondly at all of the photos.