Assignment 7 – Mountain to Fjord Trip

Our first expedition after the easter break was the Mountain to Fjord trip on which we were looking to canoe for two days and cycle and climb for the remaining two days.

After a bus ride up to Bygland we got the canoes onto Byglandsfjord for a little technique session before lunch. A small introduction by Len also showed that back in the days the Indians used to canoe on their knees to keep a lower point of gravity and an agile position. Without knee pads (or equivalent) this was easier said then done. As they had prior experience Ruaridh and Scott were allowed to instruct us in paddle techniques. Starting with the really basic principles they told us how the person in the bow (front) is the working horse while the person at the stirn (back) is the steersman of the canoe. Thus when both paddle synchronously the stirn will be in charge of where the canoe goes. The bow goes for normal power strokes holding the paddle at the T-shaped end of it moving away water with the blade curving towards themselves while using not just the arms but the whole upper body to rotate and generate force. The job for the stirn is more advanced as he needs to keep a straight course for most of the journey. He does that by normal power strokes on the opposite side of his bow. In example if he is paddling right he can just paddle harder to make the canoe go left or use his paddle like a rudder after each stroke keeping it in the water pushing outwards to put the course further right. If maneuvering in a tight space the canoe can also be turned by long wide strokes further away from it. To ensure a fast 360 degree turn the bow paddles backwards on the left while the stirn paddles forward on the rightside.

After learning all that basic technique and a lunch break we set off down the lake Byglandsfjord taking legs of leading as we have done before skiing. On once again a stunner of a day, sunshine, 15 degrees and no wind the only reminder about clothing people needed was about drinking sufficient water, wear sunscreen and caps. Paddling together with Petra we quickly got a hang of it and were most often going in a straight line. Especially the bow I noticed has to just keep rhythm, strength and side of paddling the same so that the stirn can adjust to it and keep the canoe on course. Even though it wasn’t necessary that day we kept reasonably close to the coast and not out in the open water in case of any capsizing. Since we also had a reasonably short day ahead of us with about 12km to go we took small breaks in nice beach areas to have a snack or stretch the legs for 10 minutes which was good. We learned to always bring the canoes far enough ashore depending on the windswell and water height differences of damn controlled rivers to ensure they don’t get swept away. Therefore reaching our first campsite we even pulled the canoes a meter up onto the heather and turned them around so they dry out throughout the night.
On the island we it was our first night to bivvy without a tent. We naturally decided to leave the bay where the geese were nesting alone not to disturb the animals. Due to the great weather the hardest thing to tackle really were the million ants on the ground. Hammocking became even more favourable for a sleeping option so some of us set up hammocks on the south side of the island to get the evening and the morning sun. Before cooking dinner we had one more hour of technical practice on the water where we learned how to steer the canoe on our own. Kneeling in the middle of the canoe using a normal power stroke plus the paddle as a rudder afterwards allows for the most control when going in a straight line. Turning a sharp corner can either be done with the sweep stroke or when in a bit of speed already by taking the paddle to the opposite side without swapping hands and doing a somewhat a reverse power stroke. The day endet with an interesting small weather change. As the sun dipped behind the mountains the temperature in the rivervally dropped which eventually made the wind suddenly pick up and shoot up the valley.

The next day began as the one before had ended. Sun and light winds woke us up and after a relaxed breakfast we were back on the water at 10 o clock. To have no stress at all packing up, cooking and preparing to go out on the water I decided to get up at 8. Our group, today with Thomas as our instructor in the kayak again took turns to navigate south past small islands on the still very wide river. Coming into the river mouth at mid day around Byglandsfjord we stayed closer together in case of any currents picking up though there were no issues and the paddling had already greatly improved. After carefully approaching the damn we got the canoes out of the water and guarded them at the side of the road while most of the group was going for a rafting adventure with TrollAktiv. We eventually got the canoe trailer and all the personal gear back to the TrollAktiv site to get comfortable in our lavvos. Everybody go their rental bikes and we headed into town for a quick shop.

The next day at 09:30 we were going to start our 25km ride to the climbing crag and next overnight site. Packing for cycling we only took snacks, drinks and another layer as it was only a short ride. Having arrived and settled at the crag Len showed pointed out the climbing opportunities for groups of children in the area as there were many small and easy walls and routes. Later he showed us how to rig up multiple top ropes over an edge where there are no bolts in the right place to toprope. Tying figure of 8s into two carabiners on two bolts (or tree-sling setups) to lower close enough to the edge and with another figure of 8 and screwgate set up the toprope. This way one rope can be used on a line of bolts or trees while multiple other ropes can be used for the toprope. If the same setup is to be transformed into an abseiling route with a belay backup one rope can be knotted to the system and both ends used as the abseil and the belaying safety rope given that the wall isn’t too high. The top rope anchor can still be used (after adjustment) as the tie-in and safety of the belayer.
Another thing we learned that day was to belay as long route from the top. Using two bolts to rig up two safety slings belaying from the top was pretty safe explainatory. It was important that when belaying you have the rope tied into one of the the carabiners in the safety slings to make sure the climbing rope is not just held by your belay device close to the body.

As it was supposed to be a mild sunny day the next day I packed an extra fleece jumper and rain jacket as my only spare clothes and sufficient snacks and drink for the 70km cycle to Kristiansand. Same as with the other activities we changed leader on the cycle tour. The main tasks for the leader were to keep the group together and go at a good pace for the whole group which should be around 15-16km/h on that very slightly downhill. Averaging about that and with many small breaks we got to Kristiansand at 3pm. Everybody had done well and apart from a few sore muscles and bums was still in good physical condition after the cycle.

All in all the Mountain to Fjord field trip was very enjoyable again also because of the weather. The group leading and organisational skills we have acquired in the first half of the semester I transferred to the new activity while getting more and more comfortable with hammocking, being and living outside. Summing up it was a very good learning experience and we also had the chance to look into new sports which was very nice.
I still am aware though that with a more difficult (younger, inexperienced) group in worse weather this trip would have been much more of a challenge than what it was for us.